Garrett "G-Mac" McNamara
Surfing is the cutting edge sport. ----------------------- Extreme surfing is the cutting edge of surfing
Garrett McNamara is a citizen of the world. He walks the land as an
ordinary man, but what he does in the ocean is anything but ordinary.
At a time when big-wave riding has reached new heights of popularity,
a number of surfers have stepped to the front. None of them can
surpass McNamara's combination of talent, courage and thirst for the
unknown.
Over the past five years, McNamara has been on a mission to catch the
biggest, best waves on the planet, and he has succeeded mightily.
It's a tricky business, trying to predict the exact time, location and
weather patterns of the most surfable swells. Whether it's Tahiti,
South America, the freezing waters of Northern California or the
tropical paradise of his native Hawaii, McNamara has shown an uncanny ability to be at the
right place at the right time.
The Tahitian spot known as Teahupo'o has surpassed all others, as the heaviest shallow water spot in the
world. McNamara has surfed some of the biggest, hollow
tubes, ridden there. Oahu's North Shore is his daily playground,
featuring some of the most attractive outer reefs in the realm of
tow-in surfing. Peahi; the fabled "Jaws" on Maui, is the new epicenter
for giant surf. McNamara's epic ride in 2003 remains the best
successfully ridden barrel there. He always has an eye on Cortes
Bank, the rarely ridden break some 100 miles off of the coast of
California, Garrett and his partner Kealii Mamala pioneered the new monster wave 50 miles off the coast of Santa Barbara (Shark Park).
It was typical of McNamara's sense of timing that he rode Sandy Beach, on the east side of Oahu, during a shockingly big
swell in the summer of 2004. Known for its six-foot, neck snapping
beach breaks, the area came alive with wave faces up to 35 feet - and
there was McNamara .He and his partner were riding the place alone.
McNamara wasn't brought up in big surf. He didn't surf at all until he
was 12 years old, moving from Massachusetts to Northern California in
his youth.
Raised by a single mother, Garrett and his brother, Liam, were
self-described "skateboarding freaks" in the melting pot culture of
Berkeley, during the Dog Town era. When the family moved to Hawaii in
1978, Garrett was the only haole kid in his class at Waialua
elementary school on the island of Oahu. Coming from a rough urban
environment, he fit in quickly. There were a number of"future-great" surfers around Waialua at that time. As a surfing late bloomer,
McNamara never dreaming of becoming a pro surfer,
as he struggled through the waves of Haleiwa in his early teens. Just up the road, world class surfing was taking place daily at
Pipeline and Sunset, "while my friends and I were going straight on
the whitewater," he said. "The Sunset crew would come down to Haleiwa
and surf circles around us."
In the meantime, Liam, his younger
brother, was set on a career in baseball. Little did anyone know that
by the mid 1990's, Liam would be one of the best surfers ever at
Pipeline, invariably catching that one epic wave every one waits for.
Liam became the first star of the family, focusing 110 % on Pipeline and Rockies,
the two most photographed spots in the world. Garrett's love for Waimea, Sunset and other distant reefs
kept him out of sight out of mind. Although the days Garrett ventured to Pipeline, he blew minds with his
fearless backside attack. His performance in local contests qualified
him as a professional surfer, but there wasn't much money for surfers back then.
McNamara has always surfed for the love of it.
The end result was an invitation to the Eddie Aikau contest;
surfing's most prestigious event. "That's the greatest honor, my dream,
surfing Waimea with a few friends for Eddie".
Waimea was his proving ground, and his first love as far as waves go. It's where he lives also. He has always
trained there, jumping off the rocks, diving the caves, and running with
rocks underwater. "Its where my ashes will rest in peace at the end."
McNamara's charging spirit was so far ahead of surfing's mainstream,
not many could relate.
Garrett's favorite style of training is surfing Sunset and Pipe with
no leash, and usually with an over sized, hard-to-ride board. The
horrendous wipe outs never seem to bother him, and he loves the
incredible training those long swims to the beach while wave after
wave pound on his head give him.
McNamara became interested in tow-surfing
the moment it started in the early 1990's, and it is now the sport he
lives for. When the inaugural World Cup of Tow Surfing went off at
Jaws in 2002 it offered the biggest surf and the largest first place
prize in the history of competition. McNamara won the contest and
established his place in the tow-in world. That summer he towed Teahupo'o in
Tahiti for the first time. The waves he rode there seemed to received even more publicity then Bin Laden.
The world now knew Garrett McNamara.
In the Jaws Tow-In World Cup Expression Session the following year, he
took first place again, proving it wasn't a fluke. Most surfers, even
the great ones, have a size limit of some kind, McNamara seems to have no fear..
In an era when surfers seek out the mythical 100-foot wave, McNamara says, "I'm
not interested in a 100-foot wave. I have a wife and 2 kids, it has to be at least a 120'
so there are no doubts about it." McNamara is known for taking off
on anything, no matter what the size. Always humble, he has never felt a sense of power over the ocean. "I will never challenge
any wave," he says. "I like to compliment the waves, ride the waves the best they can
be ridden - riding as deep as possible."
Garrett has directed the annual Quiksilver Molokai to Oahu paddle race
for the past 10 years. He proved that he hadn't abandoned traditional surfing
when he was invited to the 2005 Maverick's contest and surfed the place
with his usual abandon. Tow-surfing, however, is the focus of his life.
Sea Doos, and a 6-foot tow board is Garrett and his partner Kealii Mamala's
avenue into the world's biggest waves.
When you've become part of surfing lore in a global manner, no single
wave is going to stand out. McNamara's shining moment, though, had to
be during the classic Jaws session of November 2003. That's the day
he pulled into an indescribably large tube, maybe 60 feet on the face,
and came out. To this day it is known as surfing's definitive tube ride. As we learn
from his story, the man has much to be thankful for. He has been
married 13 years to Connie, and they have two children: 12-year-old
Ariana Kaimana McNamara and 9-year-old Titus Waimea McNamara.
McNamara's story is one of hard work, self-belief, and making the most
of God given gifts. He is living proof that you can do anything you want in life,
and dreams do come true.